If by any chance you aren’t already subscribed click the button below for your slice of nose-to-tail fuckery, often weekly recipes and more (it’s free).
No more have I felt the pressure of the pandemic than when shopping for fish, meat or anything that deems the lucky two must hastily make decisions under the watchful eye of the queue on the other side of the shop window. It’s not, however, the cut of meat or vintage that will be judged, but rather the speed at which a decision is made. Woe betide the shopper who pauses for breath, stumbles over their list, or worse, changes their mind in the closing stages of the deal. Once under the cosh, two camps can be observed - the planners and the plan nots. I fall into the latter.
I have made many a shite decision under the pressure of the onlooking queue. A healthy-looking bunch of Wye Valley asparagus, although delicious once seasoned with cured egg yolk and rich ham was not worth £6.50. A hungover trip to a half-decent bakery resulted in the purchase of a loaf of unforgiving sourdough, less than ideal with bacon. It’s mean crust damaged already chewed on gums. Some accidents though have been fortunate. A comically large bunch of dill, initially unwanted made its way into many a midweek supper, less as a herb and more a leaf. Buttery salmon was lifted by unruly fronds of the stuff, providing textural contrast and an abundance of grass-like freshness. Shock.
One such happy accident proved to be the find of the year - skate knobs. I was a bit taken aback too - tails, trotters and tripe are one thing, chowing down a fish dick is another. The fishmonger had heard it all before, my question was answered before it was asked. “Knob” refers to the tissue between the skates wings, the poor buggers aren’t blessed in the dick department in any case. He went on to explain the often-trashed cut was a hit in batter at the chip shop opposite.
Knobs, lend themselves to flour and fat, in that order. Once crisp and just cooked, the silken flesh becomes more tender still. A knob is to skate what a cheek is to a cod or the oyster is to its chicken. Concentrated skate flavour and giving flesh in a neat format. Ugly eating in its most forgiving form.
K.F.Skate Knob // Serves 3 // 4 hours
Cut 4 skate knobs in half. Chuck them into a bowl with enough buttermilk to cover and a heavy pinch of salt. Mix, cover, then chill for 2-3 hours.
Scatter 300g strong flour, 1 tbsp smoked paprika, 1 tbsp cayenne pepper, 2 tsp of freshly ground black pepper, 1 tsp garlic powder, 1 tsp ground cumin, 1 tsp sugar and 1 tsp celery salt into a large mixing bowl. Mix to combine.
Shake any excess milk from the knobs and dredge them one at a time in the flour, pressing the flour onto the fish as you do so. Dunk them back into the milk, then into the flour once more. Set aside for 15-20 minutes to allow the crust to dry out a little.
To a tall measuring jug, add 1 egg yolk, 1 tbsp dijon mustard, 4 tbsp capers, the zest and juice of 1 lemon, 125ml oil and 2 tbsp of water. Push a hand blender to the bottom of the jug and start to blitz. Pull the blender slowly up through the mix as you do to emulsify. Add water to reach a thick salad cream-like consistency. Season with plenty of salt. Have faith in the method.
Fry the dredged skate at 180dc until deep golden and crisp. Serve with the caper dressing, something from the beach and something that makes it pop.